Four Whimsical Flowers We’re Excited to Start in March
March is undeniably the busiest month for seed starting here in Greater Philadelphia (zone 7a), and that includes some of the most unique, airy, and delicate plants that will flower during the summer and early fall. There are a few especially whimsical cut flowers that look like they’re been ripped from the pages of a story book, and I can’t wait to see these varieties in the garden again this year.
A small harvest of Love-in-a-Puff from last October, cascading over the balcony of our Skippack studio
Love-in-a-Puff
If you’re drawn to whimsical and unique floral designs, Love-in-a-Puff is a must-grow, with their quirky balloon-like pods and vining tendrils. We’ll be starting the seeds indoors in early March, which will be harvestable by June, and then continue to grow taller and flower all summer long. We’ll direct-sow a second succession in early May, then, for our late summer and early fall bridal clients. They’re one of the most asked-for flowers in our wedding work, and we can never seem to grow enough!
How to Grow Love-in-a-Puff
Start these seeds indoors in March, around 4-8 weeks before your last spring frost. Love-in-a-Puff seedlings absolutely must stay moist (inconsistent watering is probably the most common reason these beauties fail) and it’s best to use a humidity dome as they germinate. Even so, we’ve experienced inconsistent germination in the past - it may take a little while for some of them to sprout! Love-in-a-Puff can grow quite tall and must be planted along a structure for it to climb; we use a vertical Hortonova trellis, staked about 4 ft apart, and that seems to work well.
A few airy stems of summer-flowering Tweedia
Tweedia
In early March we’ll be starting plenty of tweedia, a relatively short vining plant with oodles of dainty blue flowers. The sparkling blossoms dance on their airy stems, and they’re a perfect element for lightly cascading arrangements or a soft pop of “true blue” in bouquets. Tweedia, which is in the milkweed family, also offers varieties in white and pink shades (although I’m partial to the blue!).
How to Grow Tweedia
Start tweedia seeds in cell trays indoors under ample grow lights in early March, or about 6-8 weeks before the last frost of spring (where I live, the last frost is in early May). Until they germinate, a humidity dome is recommended to ensure they stay moist. Ensure they stay well-watered by misting the tiny plants regularly. Unfortunately, germination can be a bit unpredictable for these beauties, so give them (and yourself!) a bit of patience.
Pinch the young plants when they’re about 4-6” tall and transplant them outdoors after the last frost along a small trellis, fence, or somewhere they can climb a couple feet high. They should be spaced approximately 9” apart. They will flourish for you starting in July, with the best vine-y cuts coming around August. While tweedia is a perennial in warmer climates (zones 9-10), they are grown as an annual in most of the country. An important note while harvesting: when cut, they emit a sap that may irritate some folks with sensitive skin, so be sure to wear gloves.
Celosia in the late summer garden
Celosia
Nothing quite beats the texture of celosia. Looking like something straight out of a Dr. Seuss story, the personality-filled plumes of this uniquely-colored beauty add textural warmth to our late summer and early fall weddings.
There are three main types of celosia, each of which offer a wide variety of warm colors: plumosa (plume-like), spicata (spike-like), and cristata (brain-like). My personal favorite are the plumosa, or plume varieties - they are easy to grow, easy to work with in designs, and bring a beautiful, airy texture into any arrangement. The spicata, or spike-like varieties are also a wonderful support flower in bud vases and wedding personals. Admittedly, I tend to shy away from the spicata varieties; they’re just a bit too funky for me - but I’ve seen other farmer-florists use them beautifully!
How to Grow Celosia
This beginner-friendly cut flower is best started in cell trays indoors in mid-March, or about 6 weeks before the last frost of spring. The little seeds need some light for germination, so I press them gently into the seed starting mix and cover with a very thin layer of vermiculite. Keep them well-watered as seedlings, and pinch them when they’re about 6-8” tall. Transplant them outdoors in early May, or after the last frost and space them about 6-9” apart.
Wild, textural amaranthus from the August garden
Amaranthus
Drippy amaranthus (we especially love the Emerald Tassels and Coral Fountain varieties) are unlike any other flowering plant in the garden - and the best thing is, they’re wonderfully easy to grow and extremely productive in the garden!
How to Grow Amaranthus
Seeds can be started indoors in March to get a head start, or they can be directly sown in the garden after the last frost. Transplant to the garden in early May, spacing approximately 4-6” apart, and be sure to provide some sort of support; we use two rows of horizontal netting, as these tall and top-heavy plants need protection from the wind and elements. They’ll take off in June and will put on noticeable growth daily. We get the best cascading cuts from them in August and September, and they’ll continue to bloom through until the first frost of fall.